A well-made suit is a staple in any man’s wardrobe, representing style, professionalism, and sophistication. However, not all suits are created equal, and the ability to distinguish a high-quality suit from an average one can make a significant difference in your overall appearance and comfort. From the fabric to the stitching, here are six ways to recognize a quality suit that stands the test of time.
1. Fabric Quality
The foundation of any great suit is the fabric used. High-quality suits are made from natural materials like wool, cotton, silk, or linen. Wool, in particular, is a popular choice for its versatility, breathability, and durability. When assessing fabric quality, look for options like worsted wool or Super 100s to Super 150s, as these indicate a higher level of refinement and softness.
Tips for Checking Fabric:
Feel the Texture: A quality suit should feel smooth and soft to the touch, without being too rough or shiny. If the fabric feels stiff or plastic-like, it’s likely a cheaper blend that won’t last long.
Natural Fibers: Look for suits made from natural fibers, as they breathe better and drape more naturally over the body. Synthetic materials may appear attractive but often lack the same level of comfort and durability.
2. Stitching and Construction
A well-made suit is carefully stitched and constructed to ensure it fits perfectly and retains its shape over time. One way to identify a quality suit is by examining the stitching. A hand-stitched suit often has subtle, almost invisible stitches along the lapels, buttons, and lining, which is a sign of expert craftsmanship.
What to Look For:
Lapels: Check the stitching along the lapels. High-end suits often feature a “pick stitch,” a subtle stitch that runs along the edge of the lapel, giving it a refined finish.
Jacket Lining: A fully lined jacket, as opposed to a half-lined or unlined version, provides extra structure and comfort, allowing the suit to drape better. Additionally, look for lining materials like Bemberg or silk, which are soft and breathable.
3. Canvas Construction
A key indicator of a quality suit is the use of canvas construction rather than a fused (glued) method. High-end suits typically have a half-canvas or full-canvas construction, which means a layer of canvas fabric is sewn between the outer fabric and the lining of the jacket. This canvas helps the suit maintain its shape over time and ensures a more natural drape.
Canvas vs. Fused:
Full-Canvas Suits: These suits use canvas throughout the entire jacket, providing maximum durability and shape retention. While they are more expensive, they are worth the investment for their superior fit and longevity.
Half-Canvas Suits: These have canvas in the chest and lapel areas, offering a good balance between quality and affordability. They still provide a natural fit and are a step up from fused suits.
4. Button Quality
The buttons on a suit may seem like a minor detail, but they can reveal a lot about the suit’s overall quality. High-end suits typically use buttons made from natural materials like horn, mother-of-pearl, or corozo. These buttons not only look better but also have a refined feel and can withstand wear and tear over time.
Inspecting the Buttons:
Material Check: Feel the buttons and examine their material. Plastic buttons are common in cheaper suits and may wear out or break easily. Horn or corozo buttons, on the other hand, add a touch of luxury and durability.
Buttonholes: High-quality suits often have functional buttonholes on the sleeve, known as “surgeon’s cuffs.” This is a classic feature of bespoke and well-tailored suits. The stitching around the buttonholes should be neat and even, indicating careful craftsmanship.
5. Fit and Tailoring
A quality suit should fit you perfectly or be capable of being tailored to fit you like a glove. When purchasing a suit, pay attention to how it fits your shoulders, chest, and waist. The shoulders should align with your natural shoulder line, and the jacket should contour your torso without pulling or creating gaps.
Tailoring Tips:
Shoulder Fit: The most crucial aspect of fit is the shoulders, as they are the hardest part to alter. Ensure they fit well from the start; otherwise, it may be challenging to achieve a tailored look later.
Alterations: Even off-the-rack suits can be transformed into high-quality-looking garments with the right alterations. A good tailor can adjust the length of sleeves, take in the waist, or hem trousers to achieve a more refined, custom fit.
6. Brand and Origin
While not the only factor, the brand and country of origin can often give clues about the quality of a suit. Many of the world’s best suits are made in Italy, the UK, or Japan, where tailoring traditions are deeply rooted in their fashion industries. Italian suits, for instance, are known for their soft, lightweight construction and luxurious fabrics, while British suits often have a more structured and classic look.
What to Consider:
Reputable Brands: Research brands known for their craftsmanship and fabric quality. Brands like Zegna, Canali, or Brooks Brothers have established reputations for delivering high-quality suits.
Country of Manufacture: Look for suits made in countries with a strong tradition of tailoring. Italian, British, and Japanese manufacturers often use high-quality materials and expert tailoring techniques.
